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ORGANIC STRATEGIES FOR ANT CONTROL
© Frances Michaels
APPEARANCE
Ants are insects in the Order Hymenoptera, and it should be recognised
that they can be beneficial as well as pests. They will kill and eat any
insect they find, including fleas, fly larvae and termites. In some areas
they are an important part of the natural processes of soil aeration and
organic matter breakdown. Management programs should aim to keep them out
of the house without eliminating them from all other environments.
LIFECYCLE
Ants are social insects and live in colonies. Usually there are 3
distinct castes: workers, queens and males. Some species also have a
soldier caste. Eggs are laid by the queen, then develop into larvae,
pupate and become adults.
INDOORS
Ants invade houses searching for food and are more of a nuisance than a
danger, and they certainly do not warrant the use of highly toxic
insecticides. Use soapy water sprays to kill invading ants until you
can undertake more permanent solutions.
Proper Storage of Food
Food should be kept in containers that close tightly. Pet food should not
be left out overnight or place it in a bowl of soapy water to prevent ant
access.
Storage of Organic Waste
Compost buckets need to have tight fitting lids. Bottles, cans and
wrappings that have food particles clinging to them should be washed out
before storage for recycling.
Cleaning
A vacuum cleaner is useful to remove crumbs from corners and cracks in
the floor, as well as inside cupboards.
Sealing Cracks
Find out where the ants are entering the house and then use a silicon
caulk to block their passage. If possible, place boric acid or
diatomaceous earth in the cracks before closing.
OUTDOORS
Try to tolerate ants outdoors as they are part of the environment and
control many pests such as termites, cockroaches, fleas and flies.
Increasing the humus levels and using mulch will discourage ants in the
garden. Biting ants close to the house, children's play area or gardens
may need to be controlled using the Spraying Treatment outlined below.
Flooding
Flooding with water is useful to rid ants from plant pots.
Spraying Treatment
Make up a spray containing 500 ml of water, a quarter cup of kerosene,
a quarter cup of liquid detergent and 4 dessertspoons of vegetable oil,
shaken together. Spay a circle about .5 m radius from the nest entrance.
Pour a cup of water slowly into the nest entrance, wait a few minutes
and then spray all the ants on the surface with the homemade spray or a
pyrethrum-based spray. Repeat this procedure every 2-3 days until the
ant population declines. Lay 3-6 baits as described below, around the
nest.
Baits
Use boric acid/ sugar solution bait as a least-toxic control. To make
the bait mix 3 cups of water, 1 cup sugar and 4 level teaspoons of
Roach Prufe boric
acid product. Half fill a small screw-topped jar with cotton wool, saturate with
bait, screw the lids on tightly, seal with adhesive tape, pierce several
small holes in the lid to allow the ants access but prevent removal by
larger animals. Keep away from children and pets. This takes a few weeks
to wipe out a colony but is more effective than using highly toxic
pesticides that only kill the foraging ants, not the colony. Some ants
will prefer a mint jelly or peanut butter bait.
Sticky Barriers
Use horticultural glue, such as
Tanglefoot or
Trappit Barrier Glue around tree trunks to aid in the biological
control of scales, aphids and mealybugs, as ants patrol trees
defending these pests from attack by their natural enemies, in order
to maintain their supply of honeydew.
It
is highly recommended to band the tree prior to applying the glue
especially for young, thin-barked trees and smaller fruit trees. By
banding you protect the tree and lengthen the life of the glue
application. In addition, re-application or removal is far easier.
You can use
Tree Wrap, cling wrap, duct tape, foam tape, carpet or masking
tape to band the tree.
Suggested Products:
Nest Kill Ant
Baits
Pyrethrum
Cockroach
products
Horticultural glue
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